Dana Frank is back.

The all-world Portland sommelier—formerly of Ava Gene's, Dame and Holdfast Dining—has opened Bar Norman (2615 SE Clinton St., barnorman.com), her ode to chic European wine bar culture, with a hi-fi sound system, dozens of wines by the glass and a reasonably priced bottle program.

(Emily Bernard Stevens)
(Emily Bernard Stevens)

Beneath a canopy of dangling Edison bulbs, among towering fern fronds and flickering candles, Norman has already become a trendy spot for local food and beverage professionals and well-heeled folks on dates.

A minimalist bar setup anchors the space, paired with a large, 10-seat communal table of dark burled wood and mismatched antique chairs. A battery of two- and four-tops round out the dining room, though I use this term loosely—"dining" at Bar Norman is strictly an afterthought for now, with only a bit of Little T baguette and tinned fish on offer. You'll want to eat dinner somewhere else first, or use this place as a cheeky aperitif.

(Emily Bernard Stevens)
(Emily Bernard Stevens)

Any of the 75 or so bottles stocked on the wall are for sale to take away, or can be enjoyed on the premises for a modest $10 corkage fee. Highlights include Pheasant's Tears Kakhuri Mtsvane ($17) from the country of Georgia, Jean-Baptiste Menigoz Neo Arbois ($35) from the Jura region of France, and a well-curated essential Oregon bottle shelf with wines by Kelley Fox, Montebruno, Maloof, Holden, A.D. Beckham, and the Frank family's own Bow & Arrow Wines.

With more than 25 wines available by the glass, the bar at Bar Norman offers a vast range of flavor experiences depending on mood and inclination. You might start with the chill, light Spring Red ($11) from Australian winemaker Jordy Kay, a tart, taut drop of cherry juice and pebbles. Follow it up with Curii Una Noche y un Dia garnacha from the eastern coast of Spain, which is an altogether more serious pour, like a silky cocktail of kir and pepper jelly. The vast majority of pours are $14 and under, with a few particularly strange and rare wines topping out at $18.

(Emily Bernard Stevens)
(Emily Bernard Stevens)

There's no booze here, but if you need a nightcap, you can enjoy your choice of amari or vermouth from the bar's eye-catching collection of vintage bottles, some dating back as far as the 1960s, offered neat ($7) or with bubbles ($8).

The tastiest thing I tried on my first nights was a 1960s Fresia Chinato, served cool and fizzy with a splash of soda and a twist of orange peel. Think tannic, deep notes of clove and licorice, with a layered sweetness smoothed out by the soda, poured from an enormous 2-liter bottle dating back to the Johnson administration. I'll be drinking them all summer long.

(Emily Bernard Stevens)
(Emily Bernard Stevens)
(Emily Bernard Stevens)
(Emily Bernard Stevens)
(Emily Bernard Stevens)
(Emily Bernard Stevens)
(Emily Bernard Stevens)
(Emily Bernard Stevens)
(Emily Bernard Stevens)
(Emily Bernard Stevens)
(Emily Bernard Stevens)
(Emily Bernard Stevens)
(Emily Bernard Stevens)
(Emily Bernard Stevens)
(Emily Bernard Stevens)
(Emily Bernard Stevens)
(Emily Bernard Stevens)
(Emily Bernard Stevens)