1060 NE 25th Ave., Hillsboro, 828-1400, ambacht.us. 4-8 pm Tuesday-Sunday.

The only Belgian brewery in Hillsboro has done a better job building out its new tasting room in a drab industrial space than its neighbors. It's accented with rough-cut wood paneling and leather, and tasting flights are presented one beer at a time, so you can give each its due. On my visit, that flight started with the delicious Golden Farmhouse Ale. Of the five beers that followed, I'd pass on the eye-watering burn of the Ginger Farmhouse Ale, but return for the Matzobraü. This medium-dark beer is reminiscent of a dubbel, but made with matzo crackers, an ingredient the website explains by way of the simple question, "Can you think of a better use for the bread of affliction after Passover?" A former English major dreaming of European study-abroads never fulfilled could while away a few cold winter afternoons here.

Drink This: Golden Farmhouse Ale, a light and spritzy saison with a not-too-sweet finish.