28150 SE Highway 212, Suite A, Boring, boringbrewing.com. Noon-6 pm Thursday, noon-7 pm Friday, noon-6 pm Saturday-Sunday.

Boring brewer John Griffin has a master plan. After years selling growlers next to a field of goats on his farm property on Southeast Richey Road, he moved this December into a tiny six-seat taproom along the town's main drag. The taproom is in the same building as a garden supply store, and Griffin figures that if half a couple wants a poinsettia, the other might want a beer. Well, they should. Griffin's been brewing for 27 years, and it shows in his dedication to the beer: a scotch ale with a hot-but-not-too-hot scotch bonnet pepper, a dark and smooth and slightly English Big Yawn IPA, and especially his Boring Brown ale, with biscuity malts that round out into beautiful, doughy richness.

Drink This: The Boring Brown might be the Portland area's best of the style, all warm comfort and well-rounded richness.