326 N Flint Ave., 894-8251, exnovobrew.com. 3-10 pm Monday-Thursday, 3-11 pm Friday, noon-11 pm Saturday, noon-10 pm Sunday.

A lack of beat-you-over-the-head altruistic marketing means that many patrons of the nation's first nonprofit brewery don't even realize they are drinking for good. Then again, I'd happily drink at Ex Novo even if it were just an old-fashioned capitalist enterprise. This chic pub has an open two-story interior and a big rolling garage door for the summer, and the 10-barrel brewery is among the fastest-rising stars in the Portland beer scene. Brewmaster Jason Barbee, formerly of the Deschutes outpost in the Pearl, is known both for his takes on classic styles (including one of the driest, most perfect lagers in town) and modern West Coast hop bombs like the Dynamic Duo IIPA series. The range of beer is accented by reasonably priced comfort food like a warm baby potato and steak salad ($10). Anyone who thinks you came here just for charity has clearly never had a fresh pint of Elliot IPA.

Ryan LaBriere
Ryan LaBriere

Drink This: Start with the Elliot IPA, a tropical fruit-laden hop bomb that ranks among the best in town when fresh.