326 S Broadway St., Estacada, 630-2337, fearless.beer. 4-9 pm Wednesday-Thursday, noon-10 pm Friday-Saturday, noon-9 pm Sunday.

A comfortable, well-lit pub in a big storefront restaurant? A cardboard cutout of known racist John Wayne standing by the end of the bar? Yup, you're not in Portland anymore. Park the Prius and take a look around this little watering hole. See that shiny thing in back behind the big stack of kegs? That's a new 15-barrel brewery and canning line that was installed last April. And the tap handle that says "Peaches & Cream" on it? Well, we'll be damned if that's just about the cleanest, most hauntingly fruity harvest ale we've ever had. Relax, order some fondue, and enjoy a pint of anything. This may be Ram country, but this small, vaguely Celtic brewery will impress those who enter with an open mind.

Drink This: The Peaches & Cream Ale, or our malty longtime favorite Loki Red Ale. In fact, just get what you want—most things here are good.