29380 NE Owls Lane, Newberg, 349-8341, longbrewing.com. By appointment only.

Paul Long loves control. The former electrical engineer and head brewer for Long Brewing controls his own distribution and marketing, and every aspect of his brewing process, which occurs on a system of his own design. The product of those efforts is extremely limited availability, branding in a style we'll call fly-fisherman chic and beers that display tasteful restraint. Long's IPA glows copper, with a creamy, ivory head and enough body to balance the multiple hop additions. It's one of the few IPAs I enjoy drinking with food. The less great beers can feel somewhat stifled, and it makes paying the higher price ($8 per bomber retail for most beers, $10 per bomber for the IPA and porter) less appealing. Long says that higher price comes as a result of using the best malts and hops available, so judge for yourself.

Drink This: The IPA is a malt-forward take on the Northwest's favorite style. It's his best-selling beer for a reason.