1321 NE Couch St., 971-678-7116, natianbrewery.com.

In the old days of the Portland Bottling Company, passersby used to gather outside the west side of the building and gaze through the window to watch bottles of 7-Up roll off the assembly line. Now, according to Natian owner Ian McGuinness, drunks stagger into the lobby, searching for his tasting room. In 2009, McGuinness convinced his higher-ups at the PBC, where he works as director of quality, to let him set up a modest brewing operation where the bottling line used to be, which by then had become a de facto salvage yard for scrapped parts. Seven years later, Natian has expanded to a 10-barrel system, with product on local taps and store shelves stretching to Pennsylvania. An early adopter of aluminum cans—ironic, given the brewery's location—McGuinness prides solid staples over wanton experimentation and flavor above how strong of a hangover it'll give you. The lightly honeyed Everyday IPA is practically sessionable, while the Irish Water goes down smoother than any 9.5 percent ABV ale has the right to. If you happen to stumble down from the Sandy Hut, don't bother looking for that elusive tasting room: It doesn't exist yet. Check its Twitter (@NatianBrewery) for the most up-to-date availability.

Drink This: The Cease and Desist Imperial Milk Stout—so named after the letter McGuinness received from Guinness soon after introducing it under his surname—is aged in Kahlúa-soaked barrels, but it's surprisingly easy drinking.