27501 SW 95th Ave., No. 945, Wilsonville, 929-3774, vanguardbrewing.com. 3-9 pm Sunday-Thursday, 2-9 pm Friday, 1-9 pm Saturday.

Wilsonville's Vanguard looks like the misplaced outpost of a much larger brewery. Sam Adams, maybe. Owner Don Anderson polished his recipes while contract brewing at Stickmen in Lake Oswego for two years before getting his own system. Together with his wife, Lin, they run the 15-barrel operation, which was born fully formed in a massive warehouse neighboring Wilsonville Toyota-Scion. Anderson's standouts are the reds. Both run hoppy—the liquid amber Rotor Wash hitting 82 IBU—but the Spearman Red collaboration with Stickmen has enough maltiness to stick sweetly at the back of your throat. The brewpub is polished to a lickable shine, a side effect of Anderson's military past, with guest taps from places like Crux, Base Camp, Boneyard and Seven Brides.

Drink This: The Rotor Wash India Red Ale is a good bet.