240 SW 1st St., Stevenson, Wash., 509-427-5520, walkingmanbeer.com. 4-9 pm Wednesday-Thursday, noon-9 pm Friday-Saturday, noon-8pm Sunday.

This 17-barrel brewery is crammed in tightly beside a cozy downstairs pub festooned with breweriana, nine house ales on tap, a menu of quality pub grub, and a nice little outdoor space. The tight quarters give a little extra charm to Walking Man, which for 15 years has sat just off Stevenson's main drag. Owner Bob Craig has won his share of awards and grown his base of regulars, to the point he's adding more pub space upstairs at street level. A tasting tray nets 10 house beers, so if variety is sought, start there, as the house brews cover the range. The brewery's distribution area encompasses metro Portland, so Walking Man beers can often be found on tap at venues like the Horse Brass.

Drink This: There are people who have a long-term jones for the Black Cherry Stout, so if you like your stout with cherry-fruit overtones, this is the one. Others swear by the Homo Erectus Imperial IPA.