929 N Russell St., 281-2437, widmerbrothers.com. 11 am-10 pm Sunday-Thursday, 11 am-11 pm Friday-Saturday.

What can you say about Widmer Brothers that hasn't already been said? The massive operation is part of Portland history and one of the most significant players in the craft-beer revolution of the 1980s. Widmer Hefeweizen is one of the longest-running, most readily available and most iconic beers in the state. (Willamette Week's 2013 Beer Guide contained an oral history of the beer—it doubles as a history of the city's beer scene.) But you don't come to the Gasthaus on North Russell Street for the Hef. This is where you come to try the back catalog and small-batches, the Kiss the Götze schwarzbiers and Shamona Black Witbiers that you can't find at the grocery store. The $15 sampler might seem a little steep, but it is absolutely the play when you walk up to the bar and stare at the chalkboard of beers you didn't know Widmer made. Snag a pretzel or an Olympia Provisions bratwurst while you explore the ever-expanding world of these beer pioneers.

Andrew Koczian
Andrew Koczian

Drink This: That Kiss the Götze schwarzbier is more than just a catchy name, it's also good.