Culmination and Bill Schneller's Trumpet Major Beer Was the Portland Beer Pro/Am's Biggest Surprise

It was a beautifully balanced English ale with just a hint of the unfamiliar—everything good about barleywine without the bad.

Burton Old Ale is like IPA's Neanderthal cousin, an alternate evolutionary path for beer that was wildly popular in the 19th century, when almost every British brewer made a Burton. It's now pretty much extinct aside from winter-warmer variants. It's sweeter, maltier and less hoppy than its cousin, and sticks closer to its British lineage in malt and yeast.

For the Portland Pro/Am beer festival Oct. 15, local homebrew legend Bill Schneller went all the way back to the ancient beer writs to resurrect the style for a batch called Trumpet Major with Culmination Brewing. He insisted on using an English grain from an English malthouse, which gave it a distinct flavor. Culmination mixed his batch with a bit of brett strong ale it already had aging in barrels—mimicking a practice common in England back in the day.

Related: Natalie Baldwin Won the Annual Portland Pro-Am Beer Competition as an Amateur—Now She Returns as a Pro

Among 30 beers in competition at the Pro/Am, Trumpet Major was the biggest surprise, and probably even my favorite: full-bodied and lightly bitter with very little brett character, malty but not oversweet. The oxidative toffee notes were likewise artfully restrained. It was a beautifully balanced English ale with just a hint of the unfamiliar—everything good about barleywine without the bad. They've tapped it at Culmination, and I'll be stopping by for more. Recommended.

Willamette Week

Matthew Korfhage

Matthew Korfhage has lived in St. Louis, Chicago, Munich and Bordeaux, but comes from Portland, where he makes guides to the city and writes about food, booze and books. He likes the Oxford comma but can't use it in the newspaper.

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