Full Sail’s Waterfront Brewpub Feels Like a Piece of Oregon Beer History

My pick was the Session Fest, which was somehow sweet, spicy and citrusy all at once.

(Alyssa Walker)

506 Columbia St., Hood River, 503-386-2247, fullsailbrewing.com, 11 am-9 pm Monday–Sunday.

Full Sail didn't waste much time after buying an abandoned cannery in 1987. The company, then called Hood River Brewing Company, began bottling in their second year, when they also won a gold medal at the Great American Beer Festival for their amber. Fast forward to today, and the place feels like a piece of history—in ways both good and bad. The hallway leading to the restaurant is decked out with a floor-to-ceiling mural of Mt. Hood, barley farms and salmon swimming through the Columbia. Inside, there's a dining room, a bar and a covered, heated patio. Even if it's chilly, sit outside on their deck, where views of the river elevate the experience. Although Full Sail's amber, IPA and pale ales are fixtures at Plaid Pantry, the brewpub offers a much wider selection. My pick was the Session Fest, which was somehow sweet, spicy and citrusy all at once. I also enjoyed the dynamic flavors of the IPApaya, which delivers passion fruit, citrus and papaya with a backbone of clean maltiness.

Nearby: Hood River is one of a few cities in the state that has no law against consuming alcoholic beverages in public. You can get a six-pack to go here and crack it on the sidewalk outside. You can also get a to-go growler from 64 Taphouse & Growler Station (110 3rd St., Hood River, 541-436-4677, 64taphouse.com). Be aware that while the cops don't care, local nags sometimes do.

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