670 N Russell St., Portland, 971-271-8151, labrewatory.com. 11 am-10 pm Monday-Thursday, 11 am-11 pm Friday-Saturday, 11 am-8 pm Sunday.

Originally launched in 2015 as an off-the-wall experiment mill and marketing tool for Portland Kettleworks' state-of-the art brewing systems, the Labrewatory has evolved over the past two years. Newish brewer Jeb Hollabaugh abandoned the company's questionable and bold initial tests, like a squid ink-infused gose, with better, more delicately balanced beers. A 3.2 percent ABV English-style pub ale, a hazy IPA made with Oregon grown and malted barley, and a smoky lapsang-infused stout all impressed on our visit, offering just the right amount of new flavors inside familiar footprints. Much like the beer, the subway-tiled, open-air interior of the space has also grown more inviting over the years, with thoughtful touches like charging ports and coat hooks below the bar, and an open portal to (and delivery from) Tamale Boy next door to sate your appetite while you explore the brewery's 16 taps.

Nearby: You can see the massive brick edifice of Widmer from the sidewalk out front.