If it weren't for berry beer, I'm not sure we'd have such a vital craft-beer culture. It seems silly to geeks today, but back when the idea of a brewpub was new, pints of McMenamins Ruby and Pyramid Apricot Ale dramatically expanded their appeal.

Nowadays, most geeks I hear talking about respect for the history of American brewing nonetheless look sideways at beers like Ordnance's Bloops, a throwback wheat with no connection to today's fruited sours.

But Ordnance brewer Logan Mayfield has done a pretty remarkable job with this much-maligned style, creating a cloudy, juicy brew that delivers everything you could ever want from a fruit wheat.

The secret is in the berries, grown by owner Craig Coleman on his farm. Ordnance does use some berry powder to increase the intensity of the flavor—made partly with berries Coleman sells to a fruit processor.

Coleman's extended family also owns hop farms in the Willamette Valley, and hops power many of Ordnance's beers. If drinkers can set aside their snobbiness, they might be surprised how much they like this beer. Recommended.