50 SW 3rd Ave., 971-288-5510; 923 SE 7th Ave., 503-468-5001; afuriramenanddumpling.com. SW: Lunch-dinner daily. SE: Lunch and dinner daily.
Tokyo ramen chain Afuri's Old Town dumpling bar and noodle lab hits a sweet spot between minimalism and bursting ambition. The fast-casual restaurant is a low-key rumpus room with balanced broth, aggressive whiskey cocktails and goofy small plates like deep-fried avocado slices and colorful poke tacos. Head to the Southeast 7th location for a broader menu that includes inventive sushi offerings.