3377 SE Division St., 971-229-0571, avagenes.com. Dinner nightly.
Reopened after spring renovations and helmed by chef-owner Joshua McFadden, this glowing Roman-inspired variant on fine Pacific Northwest fare operates in honor of the food. The kitchen has been doubled in size, a private dining room has been added along with a wine cellar, and sound dampening makes it easier to talk to companions at your table. Each Ave Gene's dish—from piquant giardini and tagliatelle chicken ragu to what's very likely the best tiramisu in town—is driven by at least one perfectly in-season ingredient. $$$.