1733 NE Alberta St., 503-287-2400, aviarypdx.com. Dinner nightly.

Aviary has made its name by means of an eclectic menu that changes with the seasons and marries French culinary traditions and Eastern flavors with much aplomb. Halibut poached in beef fat, black lentils, spring onions, cardoons, yuzu hollandaise and lobster jus ($26) is a recent favorite—as are the vegetarian tasting menu ($40) and the ever-popular Lobster Wednesdays, which feature perhaps the city's best lobster rolls (available from 5 pm until they sell out). $$$.