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Aviv

1125 SE Division St., 503-206-6280, avivpdx.com. Lunch-dinner Monday-Friday.

When Aviv opened in the spring of 2018, it felt like a revelation. This Israeli vegan spot takes soy curls and turns them from a mere meat substitute into a juicy vehicle for herby shawarma. Cashew labneh ($7) is impossibly silky, and deep-fried mushroom "calamari" ($13) is a successful experiment, as well. Everything tastes rich; nothing feels like a substitution. $-$$.