4233 N Mississippi Ave., 503-504-0870, mattsbbqpdx.com. Lunch-dinner daily.

With this year's relocation, the best Texas barbecue in town is now available on the patio of German bier bar Prost. In retrospect, the fact that you couldn't accompany pitmaster Matt Vicedomini's impossibly tender brisket ($11) and smoky-hot jalapeño cheddar sausage ($4.50) with a giant boot of Kölsch seems a terrible mistake—one that was corrected three years in. $.