2135 SE Division St., 503-232-2135, nuestracocina.com. Dinner Tuesday-Saturday.

Despite the steady flow of high-end Mexican food pushing into other 'hoods, perfectly acidic margaritas and some of the most consistently excellent corn tortillas in town help Nuestra Cocina maintain its all-star status. Eat elevated interpretations of taquitos ($9) and sopes ($8) made with reverence to the rich variety of native dishes across Mexico's distinct regions. And don't miss the barbacoa de cordero (braised lamb with chiles and spices—$23). $$-$$$.