Pok Pok

(Emily Joan Greene)
By WW Contributor

1639 NW Marshall St., 971-351-1946; 3226 SE Division St., 503-232-1387; 1469 NE Prescott St., 503-287-4149; 3120 SE Milwaukie Ave., 503-233-8696; pokpoknw.com, pokpokwing.com. Lunch-dinner daily.

Even locals aren't "over" these hyped fish sauce wings based on Northern Thai cuisine. So don't feel bad about ordering them your first time here. But around your fourth or fifth time, it'd be a waste not to try more of Andy Ricker's starmaking menu, from the garlicky, lean boar collar to the yam makheua yao ($14.75)—eggplant charred to smoky-sweet consistency dressed in chiles, lime and dried shrimp. $$.

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