626 SE Main St., 503-954-2708, renatapdx.com. Dinner nightly.

This casually elegant eatery has reached the status of indisputable Buckman institution. Chef Matthew Sigler swaps out a menu of impeccable housemade pasta routinely, but you'll find hits every visit. Spaghetti alla puttanesca ($23) is sharp and salty in the perfect way, while margherita pizza ($15) is transcendent in its simplicity. There's also an amazing porchetta-spiced chicken ($26). $$$.