25 N Fremont St., 503-206-6421, smallwarespdx.com. Dinner Monday-Friday, brunch and dinner Saturday-Sunday.

Home to Momofuko vet Johanna Ware's meta-Asian offerings, this recent reboot broadens Smallwares' appeal with a children's menu and happy-hour burger. However, any changes to ever-inventive favorites, such as the fried kale and candied bacon in fish sauce ($12), would probably provoke rioting. $$-$$$.