3217 N Williams Ave., 503-282-2800. Lunch-dinner daily.
Come for the delectable sandwich, rib, and fried chicken plates—or pick up whole pounds of smoky, delicious pork shoulder ($16), beef brisket ($20) and lamb ($20) à la carte for dinner. Minute—yet fundamental—added touches like housemade sourdough and fennel aioli will keep you coming back. $.