304 SE 28th Ave., 503-517-9951, kensartisan.com/pizza. Dinner nightly.

Another contender for pizza dominance in the city, Ken's Artisan serves super-thin-crust pizzas from an 800 degree Le Panyol wood-fired stone oven. Toppings are minimal—in the best way—and the pizzas are best when piled with arugula and paired with a bottle of one of the many stellar wines on offer. There's going to be a wait, but it's always worth it. $$.