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8051 SE 13th Ave., 503-233-4613, ginossellwood.com. Lunch-dinner daily.
Gino's survives as a Corleone-fueled fever dream simmering in old country charm. The mahogany-lined restaurant sits underneath signage advertising the long-dead Leipzig Tavern, and serves inspired renditions of defiantly unreconstructed Italian classics. For full immersion, slide into a darkly lit lounge banquette and embrace the hefty pleasures of Grandma Jean's pork rib, beef and pepperoni sauce penne ($19.75). $-$$$.