Skip to main contentNestled into the southern corner of Union Station under forest-green awnings and surrounded by meticulously kept lawns and flower beds, Wilf's Restaurant and Piano Bar has quietly been wining and dining locals and travelers for 27 years. Just east of the chic Pearl District and just north of the hip hangouts in Old Town, Wilf's looks and feels a little like a place Portlanders have forgotten--but they haven't. New chef Deb Serkoian has been brought aboard to help engineer the kitchen into this century while keeping an eye on staying comfortably anachronistic.
Wilf's decor harks back much further than the year of its birth, with massive, red-velvet, wing-backed chairs, heavy curtains and muted light. Light jazz whispers through the high-ceilinged room, interrupted only by the sizzle of tableside preparations and the occasional clinking of silverware.
Before even water glasses or menus arrive, a server appears, inaudible on the heavy carpeting, with small dishes of chicken liver pâté and Wilf's special concoction of sour cream, mayonnaise, Dijon mustard and puréed anchovies. Crisp leaves of romaine and a basket of grilled flatbread and breadsticks accompany these unexpected treats and complement the deservedly famous martinis.
The ambience and the service, however, convey a higher standard than the kitchen delivers. The food at Wilf's is primarily continental, meat-and-potatoes fare, but overextends itself with Italian, French and Caribbean flavors. The eight starters on the menu include the lively Wilf's Salad of romaine scattered with pieces of Dungeness crab and a handful of Oregon bay shrimp, then coated with pre-grated parmesan and a zippy, lemony dressing ($6.75 or $12 as an entree). The salmon cakes ($8.75) fare less well-- they're mushy and a bit too fishy. The classic French onion soup ($4.75) smelled delightful, and the first, tasty spoonful of crunchy, buttery toast and bubbly cheese was promising, but the oversalted beef broth tasted suspiciously canned and overpowered the onions, which added nothing but texture. Toasted pumpkin seeds and taro chips (wafers of baked root vegetables) give the green salad ($4.50) a nice crunch and earthy flavor, but the Caesar ($15 for two), tossed tableside, was overdressed and lackluster.
The "tableside" action heats up with the entrees, adding a fitting touch of pomp in this old-school establishment--and the prices reflect it. We passed over the culinary chaos of Whiskey Barrel Prawns ($28)--"tiger prawns flamed table-side with peppers, onion, mango, avocado, banana, Caribbean jerk spice...presented with a honey butter, fresh mint, over mixed greens, in a puff pastry barrel"--for the Steak Diane ($26.75). The two medallions of beef tenderloin are generous and satisfying, prepared tableside with butter, shallots, mushrooms, a demi-glace and a good dash of brandy set aflame. The meat is meltingly tender and cooked nicely to order, but the sauce is salty. Mashed potatoes and crisp green beans added flavor, texture and color.
The dessert tray, which had
tantalizingly passed our table all evening, reappeared at the perfect time. An appealing berry cobbler was sold out, but an equally seasonally appropriate marionberry cheesecake ($6.50) and a Derby Tart ($6.50) were available, as was Strawberries Flambé ($13.50 for two). The strawberries' preparation drew envious glances and exclamations from surrounding tables. JoAnne Nofield, queen of the tableside at Wilf's, deftly executed the flambé but could not save the pale and hollow strawberries even with copious amounts of brown sugar, butter and Grand Marnier. The cheesecake was light and fruity and grounded on a buttery graham-cracker crust. The Derby Tart--a dense combination of caramel, chocolate and walnuts on a shortbread crust--was tooth-achingly sweet.
The throwback atmosphere and attentive service--our server struck a good balance between pleasant chitchat and pertinent information--explains why Wilf's is populated, if sometimes sparsely. Lounging in an armchair with a smooth martini and a substantial salad makes for a tasty and affordable evening, and avoids the high prices and cluttered ingredient list of some of the entrees. If you want to feel transported back in time and are in the mood for Steak Diane or filet mignon while watching a train or two go by, the portions are generous enough for two and worth the trip to the station.
Wilf's
800 NW 6th Ave. (in the Union Station building), 223-0070.
11:30 am-11 pm Monday - Thursday, 11:30 am - midnight Friday, 5 pm - midnight Saturday.
$$$ expensive.
Picks: Wilf's Salad with crab and bay shrimp, beef dishes, marionberry cheesecake
Nice touch: Train-station setting and old-school charm, including rose petals under each wine glass
WWeek 2015