"Until last year we were in a garage," says the sprightly woman pouring a flight of Enso wine. She means to elicit surprise. The effect is muted since the cavernous warehouse is still, technically, a garage with a polished cement floor and roller door. Enso (1416 SE Stark St., ensowinery.com) is part of a newish crop of urban wineries buying grapes in the hinterlands, then barreling and selling them here. Enso is comfortable not trying too hard. There's a giant logo painted on the wall, assorted pine furniture and Sufjan's deep cuts playing loudly from a pair of tinny speakers. The open barrel room is brighter than the bar, an interesting and pleasant effect. An electric fireplace is cute, but for the orange extension cord running to it. The woman pouring the flight ($5) suggests it's "too cold" to drink white wine. Indeed, something's amiss. We enjoyed the dry, leathery Mourvèdre better.