Kargi Gogo

BY GEORGIA: Proper khinkali-eating technique.

Perhaps in keeping with their precarious geography, located at the Asian-European border between Turkey and Russia, Georgians are known both for their quick hospitality and equal speed at giving you the knife. At Kargi Gogo, a new downtown cart serving Georgian street food, the knife comes with a fork.

Kargi Gogo (Georgian for "good girl") is pure comfort fare. Case in point: Georgia's national dish, khachapuri ($6), is basically a grilled cheese sandwich—a partly pickled blend of Georgian cow-milk cheeses curdy enough to be goat, melted into toasted flatbread. It is as if the native pungency of a farm has been distilled into bread and cream, and it is wonderful.

The cart's khinkali ($6) is soup, meatball and dumpling at once. The broth-filled teardrops of dough must be bitten into and slurped from upside down before one can safely finish the meal of bitter herbal beef and pork. (Note: Do not wear white while eating or it will get spotted with broth.)

Meanwhile, the garlicky badrijani ($6) is a vegan version of bacon-walnut hors d'oeuvres. Rolled strips of eggplant fill in the savory notes, while seeds of decadent pomegranate add a tart wallop.

The cart's owners are not Georgians but rather a pair of friendly Midwestern former Peace Corps volunteers who learned to cook while partaking in any of a number of supras, which are lengthy Georgian feasts. A "supra" containing a bit of each item on the menu is available for $8, and it's the best option. Eaten individually, each item seems like a large-portioned appetizer; served together they are, if not a feast, certainly a lovely peace offering.

EAT: Kargi Gogo, 950 SW Washington St., 489-8432, kargigogo.com. 11:30 am-5:30 pm Monday-Friday, noon-4 pm Saturday. $.

WWeek 2015

Matthew Korfhage

Matthew Korfhage has lived in St. Louis, Chicago, Munich and Bordeaux, but comes from Portland, where he makes guides to the city and writes about food, booze and books. He likes the Oxford comma but can't use it in the newspaper.

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