Bar Guide 2014: Rum Club

RUM CLUB

Rum Club is the cocktail outpost of a former cocktail bar, Beaker & Flask, whose spacious environs quickly became much more of a restaurant (and WW's 2009 Restaurant of the Year). Beaker & Flask is no more, but Rum Club has proven resilient, in part by being a remarkably hospitable space to disparate groups: first-daters, out-of-towners, patio smokers and especially cocktail aficionados who prefer to avoid the inflated prices and vest-and-bow-tie fussiness of westside mixology shrines. As if to illustrate this versatility, one of the bar's walls is covered in fashionable deco-butterfly wallpaper, while the other is watched over by a giant carved bear whose quaintness is overruled by clumsily terrifying features. Outside, the former pawn shop's patio is guarded from six corners of busy thoroughfare by loose-slatted iron gates. 

Within, the Rum Club is a cozy bartenders' haunt of curated cocktails, with a list that revives obscure classics such as the Preakness ($8)—bourbon bittered three ways, with no ingredient except its lemon slice under 20 proof—and a wealth of complex cocktails that redeem the Club's eponymous liquor from punch-bowl purgatory or faux-tiki hell. Sure, you can get a mind-bending daiquiri ($8) that experiments with absinthe in the manner of an old French intellectual, but instead you may find aged rums mixed with sherry, scotch and orange oil amid a list of well-balanced concoctions that rarely climb to two-digit pricing while still containing more than two fingers.

The bar's liquor shelf goes five deep and impossibly high; you could visit every day for a year and probably not exhaust it. As vision quests go, you could do worse. That is, if you could see straight when you were done.

  1. Happy hour: 4-6:30 pm Monday-Saturday, all night Sunday. Snack and cocktail specials.
GO: Rum Club, 720 SE Sandy Blvd., 265-8807, rumclubpdx.com. 4 pm-2 am Monday-Saturday, 5 pm-midnight Sunday.

WWeek 2015

Matthew Korfhage

Matthew Korfhage has lived in St. Louis, Chicago, Munich and Bordeaux, but comes from Portland, where he makes guides to the city and writes about food, booze and books. He likes the Oxford comma but can't use it in the newspaper.

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