Trifecta: Restaurant Guide 2014

726 SE 6th Ave., 841-6675, trifectapdx.com

[BEST BREAD] Everyone's found a little something to love about Trifecta, master baker Ken Forkish's year-old tavern in the former Spike's Auto Upholstery. I'd go just for the bread—Ken's the man, man. Local beer geeks have honed in on the opulent pimento double cheeseburger ($15 with fries) and decadent piccalilli-topped grilled marrow bones ($16 and very impressive on a recent visit) plus a pint of Upright's Dark Rye. Certainly, plenty of people are crossing the river from the Pearl for oysters ($4 for one pan-fried on a bun, $10 for two shucked and served with ham and rolls, $16 for a half-dozen on the half shell) and a bottle of French or Italian wine from a list where either country has more to offer than the entire American West Coast. Chef Rich Meyer came from Higgins, and the influence shows in top-shelf bar snacks like Old Bay-seasoned potato chips ($2) and hearty classics such as housemade sausages ($12 with beans) and cider-grilled chicken with fried onions ($22). Whatever you do, get the bread—which is free—and ultra-fresh butter, which is $3. MARTIN CIZMAR.

Pro tip:

A sleeper pick for the best upscale happy hour in town, Trifecta serves that double cheeseburger for $10 and $16 steak frites from 4-6 pm on weekdays and until 5 pm on Saturday.

4 pm-close daily. $$-$$$.