8733 SE Division St., Suite 101, 788-8883, wongsking.com

[CHICKEN PAWS] Among the language barrier, exotic ingredients and sheer length of the menu, tucked-away Wong's King can be intimidating to initiates, especially when you enter a full waiting lounge that looks like a Chinatown DMV. The massive dining hall is always full, and there is always a wait. But unlike standing in line at ¿Por Que No?, this is actually a good thing. When it comes to dim sum, you always want to order from the carts during the busiest times; when it's slow, items will sit longer. After getting a table, flag down a cart and choose anything from the familiar shrimp-and-pork shiu mai dumplings or black bean spareribs to the more adventurous items such as "chicken paws" in chee hou sauce. After 3 pm, the dinner menu offers plenty of fresh-caught entrees, many from the wall of live seafood inside. Though they won't let you select your dinner, they will prepare it expertly. Just be aware that the market price is per pound, so while the lobster with ginger and scallions is perfectly tender and seasoned, it'll set you back more than some of the standard Chinese dishes on the menu. In addition to a spacious dining room with tables ideal for large parties—it's a favorite for Chinese and Vietnamese weddings— there is also a lounge with an extensive cocktail menu. BROOKE GEERY.

Pro tip:

Show up around 11 am for dim sum, just as the lunch rush starts to ramp up.

10 am-11 pm Monday-Friday, 9:30 am-11 pm Saturday-Sunday. $$.