Yakuza: Restaurant Guide 2014

5411 NE 30th Ave., 450-0893, yakuzalounge.com

[THE OLD NEW SCHOOL] When it opened back in 2005, the izakaya-ish Yakuza was novel and exciting, sexy sake-fueled indulgence spanning from eye-popping sushi rolls to an iconic burger. Things have gone up and down over a decade, but even on a night when they were deep in the weeds—I've never heard of another sushi restaurant running out of rice, or any Oregon pub pouring the last of its IPA—Yakuza showed impressive spunk. Yakuza seasons aggressively, which you'll see from an opener of snap peas with salty shredded nori and even saltier umeboshi, a plate that functioned like a little bowl of bar nuts. Meanwhile, tuna poke ($14) with hot chili and nutty sesame glowed on the plate and a smallish bibimbap bowl ($8) with duck fat and a perfectly soft-boiled egg equaled anything I've had in Beaverton's K-Town. Best of all was a ramen bowl with smoky pork, supple noodles and stewy sesame-dotted broth. MARTIN CIZMAR.

Pro tip:

Yakuza is closed both Monday and Tuesday. You might also avoid Wednesday, as they seem slow to get back into the swing.

5-10 pm Wednesday-Sunday. $$.