Yakuza: Restaurant Guide 2014

Yakuza

5411 NE 30th Ave., 450-0893, yakuzalounge.com

[THE OLD NEW SCHOOL] When it opened back in 2005, the izakaya-ish Yakuza was novel and exciting, sexy sake-fueled indulgence spanning from eye-popping sushi rolls to an iconic burger. Things have gone up and down over a decade, but even on a night when they were deep in the weeds—I've never heard of another sushi restaurant running out of rice, or any Oregon pub pouring the last of its IPA—Yakuza showed impressive spunk. Yakuza seasons aggressively, which you'll see from an opener of snap peas with salty shredded nori and even saltier umeboshi, a plate that functioned like a little bowl of bar nuts. Meanwhile, tuna poke ($14) with hot chili and nutty sesame glowed on the plate and a smallish bibimbap bowl ($8) with duck fat and a perfectly soft-boiled egg equaled anything I've had in Beaverton's K-Town. Best of all was a ramen bowl with smoky pork, supple noodles and stewy sesame-dotted broth. MARTIN CIZMAR.

Pro tip:

Yakuza is closed both Monday and Tuesday. You might also avoid Wednesday, as they seem slow to get back into the swing.

5-10 pm Wednesday-Sunday. $$.

WWeek 2015

Martin Cizmar

Culture editor Martin Cizmar writes about food, beer, jam bands, country music, gangsta rap, bikes, cannabis and the outdoors. He’s originally from a smallish city in the part of Ohio that was once part of Connecticut and has worked as a reporter at dailies in Michigan, Virginia and Arizona and as music editor at the alt-weekly in Phoenix. He’s a passionate advocate for unfettered access to public lands, the repatriation of Oregon wolves, increased urban density and good machaca burritos. He is unwelcome in the cities of Salem and Lake Oswego.

Willamette Week’s reporting has concrete impacts that change laws, force action from civic leaders, and drive compromised politicians from public office.

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