Counter Attack: Asian


Bollywood Theater

2039 NE Alberta Ave., 971-200-4711; 3010 SE Division St., 477-6699; 

The Division Street sequel is bigger and flashier than the original box-office smash—two floors of tatty wood chairs, a barge of subcontinental bric-a-brac, and a little market selling 10-pound sacks of idli rice and bottled Maggi hot sauce. You're here to see the same stars, though, including those massive beef kati rolls and the chicken curry thali meal, a platter of warming curry, saffron rice, lentil soup, toasty dal, crispy paratha and piquant green chutney.

Nong's Khao man Gai

609 SE Ankeny St., Suite C, 740-2907; 411 SW College St., 971-255-3480; Southwest 10th Avenue and Alder Street, 971-255-3480; 

Nong's has added a Southeast walkup to her food-cart army serving the landmark khao man gai dish (chicken and rice) that launched a million articles. You need nothing else. You gotta show up before 1 pm or you don't get fried chicken skin on the side. 

The Sudra

2333 NE Glisan St., 971-302-6002, 

The Sudra is less Indian than a fuzzy pan-vegan mix of Latin and Near East that eschews rice bowls in favor of varied platters involving zucchini-squash kofta, potato masala, kale with tahini dressing, lime-cilantro sauces, pickled Anaheim peppers and earthy anasazi curry beans.

Frank's Noodle House

822 NE Broadway, 288-1007, 

Don't plan on leftovers of Frank Fong's homemade noodles. Sure, the portions are huge, the noodles are thick enough to lace Doc Martens and you get kimchee and pickled daikon before the meal. But you will still finish those wonderful, chewy noodles every time—cabbage and bell peppers and all—despite your best efforts to preserve them.

Boke Bowl

1028 SE Water Ave., 1200 NW 18th Ave., 719-5698,

The clean, modernist ramen shop makes a lot of very nice basic bowls, all easily upgraded with pork belly or cornmeal-crusted oysters. The best of all combos is the vegetarian caramelized fennel dashi made meaty with fried chicken.

 The Directory: Our 100 Favorite Restaurants in Portland

By Neighborhood: Southeast | North/Northeast | Westside | Suburbs 

 2014 Restaurant of the Year: Kachka 

Top Five: Old Salt, AtaulaAmerican LocalExpatriate

Counter Service Spots: Latin | Asian | Italian | Sandwiches | Burgers 

Wine Bars | Beer Lists | Veg-Friendly | Gluten-free | Elsewhere in Oregon 

WWeek 2015

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