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In theory, at least, the area surrounding Portland State University needs more bars. The school has 30,000 students, making it our state's largest such institution, and yet the bar scene around the South Park Blocks is notably thin—the Cheerful Tortoise and, umm, Higgins? Up from Eugene comes First National Taphouse (1962 SW 5th Ave., 971-703-4579, firstnationaltaphouse.com), the new midtier, beer-focused bar the neighborhood presumably needs. This is neither a meat market nor a stuffy den for would-be MBAs, but the sort of dark, wood-walled place you'd find a second-career nursing student from San Francisco rooting halfheartedly for the Giants, then covering her glass of red wine with a beer coaster before heading out for a smoke. The food is fine, if not special: The fish-and-chips plate ($13.95) comes with three chunks of cod in a laudably light batter, with indistinctive slaw and fries. The tap-beer selection is better than average and the coolers are stocked as well as a New Seasons. Half the wine list comes from Southeast Portland's Coopers Hall urban winery, and the cocktail list includes an Old Fashioned ($8 with George Dickel rye and Angostura bitters) in lieu of the trusty ol' Long Islands of my own college years.
WWeek 2015