29380 NE Owls Lane, Newberg, 349-8341, longbrewing.com. By appointment only.
[LEGENDARY LAGERS] If future generations want to grow a
clone of the perfect small-batch brewer, they'd probably start with Paul
Long. The retired electrical engineer is the son of an Independence hop
farmer and plowed through the American Homebrewers Association like a
mustachioed George Mikan before going commercial, winning top ribbons
for six different styles. The operation responsible for his bottle-only
line is a secondary hobby for Long, picked up after 40 years as an
oenophile. In fact, it's the complexity and balance of a wine that Long
searches for in each batch. The brews he alchemizes are meticulous. The
lagers are clean, the IPA is a stunning example of the form, and the
blonde and kolsch are sunny treats with a subtle glow. Paul's eponymous
porter is delicate, laced with cocoa and caramel roast. It's tempting to
name each pour Long's finest, but then you're handed another and forced
to reconsider. His Roarkian opposition to compromise has earned him the
plaudits of Valley vintners and tap space in wine country fine-dining
establishments. Long's cherished nectar is spendy, with single bottles
mostly sold through boutique markets with imported pasta noodles and
running upwards of a sawbuck. Tastings happen by appointment only at
Paul's homespun brewing facility in the hills above Newberg.
DRINK THIS: Everything is good. If Paul has something barrel-aged to offer, you're especially fortunate.