240 N Broadway, Suite 2, 735-5337, uprightbrewing.com. 5-9 pm Thursday, 4:30-9 pm Friday, 1-8 pm Saturday, 1-6 pm Sunday.
[CASH ON THE BARRELHEAD] Alex Ganum's Upright Brewing
rarely makes a misstep. Is it because of the restraint you find in beers
like the Five saison, subtle in its hoppiness with equally subdued
floral notes? Or because they're always pushing the envelope with
offerings like Captain Beefheart, which took 60 pounds of charred beef
heart in the boil? Maybe it's a little of both. The brewery's firm
restraint shows up even at its unadorned basement tasting room in the
Left Bank building. They accept only cash or check, and reserve their
crisply balanced Four Play cherry sour wheat for one tap here. Their
transcendent, clean, possibly perfect Engelberg Pilsner remains resolutely unbottled and therefore always fresh. Their
seasonals, true to their name, often actually return, like their biggest
beer by far, a spicy, fragrant 9.4 percent Spollen Angel tripel that is
a tribute to longtime local brewer Chris Spollen, now of Old Ivy. Improvisation, as all the old jazz masters know, requires a firm
grasp of form.
DRINK THIS: Upright's first
try at a Roggenbier—basically a rye hefeweizen—crackles slightly under
soothing citric hops and a hint of clove. It's a winter gem.