Kabob House

Maybe I'm an unserious person, but every time Obama and Bibi get in a fight about Iran, my stomach growls. Every bit as much as the politics, Persian food is rich and complex, singular in its history. But Persian spots in Portland proper have had an odd and inconsistent history.

Well, thank goodness for Kabob House. In a tucked-away plaza in the Beaverton Town Square mall, Jafar Ehfad's little spot remains constant, an earth-toned oasis of koobideh. "Delicious!" says Ehfad, each time you order an item. As I waited for a takeout order, cardamom-spiced tea in hand, a steady stream of Farsi speakers wandered through to pay their respects.

But although the koobideh—a shish-cooked sausage—is fine, get the gheimeh ($11), a tomato-based stew stacked with split peas, potatoes and tender chunks of beef. The mix of heavy turmeric and lemon, combined with savory fillings, creates an almost unbearable warmth.

The filet mignon and chicken shish kabobs, meanwhile, are served with blooms of onion and green pepper, heavily marinated with salt-forward spice and charred a bit on the edges. The ghormeh sabzi is a richly layered mess of greens, from parsley to cilantro to fenugreek leaves, with kidney beans and beef. All dishes are served with an overly prodigious mountain of saffron rice. It is not fine dining or even close—you're best off grabbing takeout—but it is very fine, and in these ever-changing times it's good to have something to rely on.

1. Order this: Choose between the gheimeh and combo kabob plate.

EAT: Kabob House, 11795 SW Beaverton-Hillsdale Highway, Beaverton, 672-9229. 11 am-9 pm daily.

WWeek 2015