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5821 SE International Way, Milwaukie, 719-6475, breakside.com. 3-8 pm Monday-Friday, noon-8 pm Saturday-Sunday.
Breakside was the talk of Portland beer this year,
taking medals at the Great American Beer Festival in the
hypercompetitive IPA and strong pale ale categories. And yet, the
brewery remains resolute in its pursuit of new styles to master. La
Tormenta, a tangy and pineapple-forward dry-hopped sour that was one of
our top 10 beers of the year, shows the sort of infuriating knack for
perfection you get from Yalie brewer Ben Edmonds. The Milwaukie
industrial park pub, which is where Breakside makes that beer after
overgrowing the small system in Dekum Triangle, isn't anything new: It
has wood-paneled walls, medals behind the bar, brewery smells, noise and
the occasional rush of cold air from the docking bay. You go here
instead of to Dekum for the greater variety. Breakside IPA may be the
best in the nation, but virtually everything pouring from the pub's 22
taps would make a top-10 list somewhere. Come next October, we'll see
what new territories Breakside has conquered.
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