1028 SE Water Ave., 894-9708, bunkbar.com. 11 am-midnight Sunday-Thursday, 11 am-1 am Friday-Saturday.

As most local empires do, Portland's pre-eminent sandwich sultans began in earnest as a tiny operation named after a character on HBO's The Wire. But Bunk Bar is less Moreland than Stringer Bell these days, with deep connections to the underground that'll bring Sir Richard Bishop or Thurston Moore into the tiny bar for like $10. (These sell out, and then people try to sneak in through the kitchen.) Speaking of the kitchen, the menu's deep cuts, such as the Italian cured meats ($10.50; includes Bunk's marinated pepper mix) and the roast beef ($10) are worthy of bringing a friend and going halfsies for experimentation's sake. There's nothing quite like watching an on-the-rise indie band with 50 other people who likewise have a trail of pork grease drizzled down the front of their hoodies.

Happy hour: 4-6 pm daily. $1 off wells and beer.

Entertainment: Live music, occasional trainspotting.