2126 SW Halsey St., Troutdale, 669-8610, mcemenamins.com/edgefield. Hours vary among the nine pubs, but something's open anytime between 7 am and 1 am.

A certain type of beer geek will fret about McMenamins' lack of consistency among its 20-plus brewmasters and countless brewers. But this is a feature, not a flaw. At the many-acre Edgefield brewery, winery, distillery, resort, pool hall and golf course out near the outlet stores of Troutdale, the Terminator Stout tastes like tobacco, and barrel-aged seasonals abound, including occasional sours and an oft-transcendent aged Night Court Barleywine (which is too funky this year). You trudge here through a tiny cigar bar, a giant resort restaurant and a smoky distillery bar, seeking out seasonals and one-offs. Recently, this included a deep, smoky, chocolaty Lord Snow Imperial Stout with a refreshing hint of mint at its edges, plus a beautifully citric and piney Double Threat Imperial IPA. The whole experience is like a hill stomp through an old English village where everyone's drunk.

Happy hour: Varies. But Black Rabbit's and the Power Station Pub's is  3–6 pm and 10 pm–close, with food specials, $4.50 pints and $6.75 taster trays.

Entertainment: Pool, TV, golf, distillery tours, cigar smokin', spa, whatever. It's like a cruise ship floating in the troubled seas of Troutdale.