This Montavilla spot—staffed seemingly exclusively by bearded men—often makes cocktails with dulcet, subtle tones rarely tasted elsewhere among Portland lounges often bent on the fiery, herbal and medicinal. For example, a gently beige Ainsley made with rum, génépi and pineapple; a Nameless made with chamomile; or a Warm Hand, Cold Heart that thickens chocolate vodka and Kahlúa with stout. It is an almost quaint refuge, in a drink-heavy small-town district at the edge of Tabor, now home to every snowboarder who decided to start a family and seemingly half the fashion designers who actually decided to start a business.

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