3131 SE Division St., 232-0102, whiskeysodalounge.com. 4 pm-midnight Sunday-Thursday, 4 pm-1 am Friday-Saturday.

Salt is the secret to Whiskey Soda Lounge's jelly beer (also known as "bia wun," "beer woon"), which Andy Ricker's profitable Pok Pok waiting room has been serving for five summers now, enough so that people have forgotten it was a waiting room and not a destination unto itself—amid Division's born-yesterday hordes, it's now almost a classic rather than an arriviste. The machine that makes the popular jelly beer, which looks like a grocery-store wine chiller but also has a built-in agitator, is filled with saltwater that gets below freezing. When you order one, the bartender tosses a 12-ounce bottle of Singha Thai beer in the tub until it freezes. The bartender gets a straw ready, cracks the top and tells you to get sipping. The frozen suds spurt out, meaning you have to suck hard and fast. It's reason enough to visit.