The Roxy

1121 SW Stark St., 223-9160, theroxydiner.com. Open 24 hours, but it don't like Mondays.

Whither the Roxy, so goes a whole culture of the teenaged, the goth, the gender-idiosyncratic, the deeply drunk and Ecstasy-enamored and otherwise merely nearby—Portland's joyful late-night fringe that seemingly, mostly, needs an insane amount of egg, biscuit, bacon and especially gravy; a bottomless 4 am cup of joe; and a 5 am heart attack. This ode to camp and days gone by, in the "heart of a glamour district" that has mostly faded around it, does not change and does not fade. It never should. 

The Hotcake House

1002 SE Powell Blvd., 236-7402, hotcakehouse.com. 24/7.

This is Portland's all-day, all-night, gut-bombing Utilikilt. Pancakes, eggs, bacon, one-third-pound double-D burger and house-sized omelets, all democratized in flavor by grills with more history than some entire cities. It's also the only place teens have to hang out late at night, so watch out for the de facto school groups.


Javier's Taco Shop

121 N Lombard St., 286-3186. 24/7.

Want to have some fun on the Internet? Hang out on all-night taqueria Javier's Yelp page, where people with the wrong idea share stories of what they found in their burrito or taco. But you're not here for gourmet food. You're here because this is where North Portland goes at 3 am, whether cabbie, EMT, ambiguously high U of P'er, or weekend warrior. Use lots of hot sauce, and bask in the world's beautiful variety.

Devil's Dill

1711 SE Hawthorne Blvd., 236-8067, devilsdill.com. Delivery till 2:30 am, open till 3 am nightly.

Devil's Dill would not have to be open after bar close to be essential. All it would need is that five-spice pulled pork ($9.50), spice and marinade blended to that beautiful balance of sweetness and underlying complexity, covered in a sesame slaw that adds both earthiness and acidity. Oh, and Devil's Dill delivers. Late.


Montage

301 SE Morrison St., 234-1324, montageportland.com. Open till 3 am Saturday-Sunday.

The Montage late night is a hallowed, under-the-bridge tradition only glancingly ceded to the tourists and the college-aged, a last-call stop for a Rainier that continues into a spold mac and cheese ($8.75), an oh-so-Creole mix of cream and spice and plenty of oil. Toast the memory of old Portland under a mural of the Last Supper peopled with the Montage's staff. 

Hammy's Pizza

2114 SE Clinton St., 235-1035, hammyspizza.com. Delivers till 4 am nightly, carryout till 2:30 am.

Hammy's is best known as a late-night drunken utility, sure. But the pizza's good enough to order sober, with the slight sourdough tang you get from slow-proofing the dough, daily-made sauce, fresh meats and seasonal toppings that are often organic. You thought you were paying a couple extra bucks ($21.95 for a hefty large specialty pie, plus a $3 delivery charge after midnight) as a drunk tax? Nope.