Haute-N-Ready: Bacon and Blue on Brioche

 

Scoff as you might at the hubris of fast food trying to pass itself off as fast casual, the Bacon and Blue on Brioche pulls it off. This is a far cry from the saccharine disaster that was Wendy’s barbecue menu. The cheese and the aioli do a good job of tasting like blue cheese. The burger patty tastes like a burger. Bacon tastes like bacon—the cheese and tomatoes do a good job keeping it moist enough it won't taste like the dried-out bacon that haunts too many other fast food bacon offerings. The arugula aptly plays the role of unnecessary green leafy thing.

The true standout here is also the burger’s main weakness: That soft, buttery brioche bun is a wonderful additional to the creamy goodness of the burger, but it isn’t the best bun for serving a potentially messy burger. The squareness of the patty doesn’t particularly help either.

But those are minor quibbles with what is an outstanding fast food burger. At $5.19 apiece, you might not find a better hamburger in a drive-thru. Carl’s Jr has long been king of the hill in this price range, but the Bacon and Blue on Brioche has moved Wendy’s up the hillside quite a bit. And somehow Wendy’s managed to do this without a buxom blonde asking you if you want to join the Mile High Club.