Davenport is a black cube, all reclaimed wood, sharp angles and polished concrete. It's a haven for aesthetes who like things perfectly simple.

And indeed, there's nary a misstep in former Evoe chef Kevin Gibson's oft-changing menu of refined, globally influenced Pacific Northwest fare.

Thick, toastlike triangles of country pork pâté studded with cherries, smeared with a dollop of mustard seeds and topped with an assortment of spiced pickles is a wonder, while a quartet of tart, tender lamb meatballs and sheep's milk ricotta swimming in an addictive tomato sauce were so good one table picked them apart and discussed them for nearly 20 minutes before taking a second bite.

A cheese plate (listed on the menu simply as "Cheese, $12") was an edible "Welcome to Oregon" sign, featuring a smear of cow's milk Soumaintrain festooned with raspberries, hazelnuts, champagne grapes and supernatural-looking ground cherries, still attached to their paper-thin pods, sourced from the nearby People's Food Co-op Farmers Market.

This Davenport may not look like the kind of place to put your feet up, but you won't want to leave.

Pro tip: Most servings are only slightly larger than an average appetizer and served family-style, so for two people, expect to order at least four plates.

GO: 2215 E Burnside St., Portland, 236-8747, davenportpdx.com. 5-9 pm Tuesday-Thursday, 4-10 pm Friday-Saturday. $$$.