Gabriel Rucker's tiny East Burnside restaurant thrives on the combination of high and low culture; Peking duck breast ($32) and an extensive wine list exist alongside the best burger in town ($14) and Coors Banquet ($3). And at one of the nicest restaurants in town, the soundtrack includes "Mo Money, Mo Problems."

Tucked into a stretch of street full of boutiques, bars and venues, it draws a crowd of knowledgeable locals, girls on their way to karaoke, businessmen and food tourists. Let the music drown out the other patrons so you can focus exclusively on the eating experience.

The rich ricotta gnocchi ($16) with beef tongue and broccoli is a good way to start, and pork en fleek ($28) is a succulent delight with leek, peach and pickled peppers and more than just a cute name.

Photo: Matt Wong
Photo: Matt Wong

But the burger. Oh the burger. Cooked to your ideal pinkness, covered in blue cheese, with a salad to accompany it so you don't get distracted by fries. Get a seat at the counter, get a burger and thank your lucky stars you live here.

Pro tip: Get the creme brulee. It's actually two desserts, as it comes with pots de crème. OK, three desserts: The pots de crème come with cookies.

GO: 738 E Burnside St., 546-8796, 5-10 pm daily. $$$-$$$$.