BY AMY WOLFE

"I never knew vegan food could be this good," said my carnivorous companion.

As a vegetarian, this is nice to hear. Portobello is a traditional Italian trattoria, except the steak is a big, meaty mushroom ($16), and the pizzas are topped with cashew cream.

Go straight for the cheesy ravioli with corn ($13)—a cashew creamy tomato sauce cushions the cashew cheese-stuffed corn ravioli noodles that are sprinkled with asparagus and finished with mini bites of corn and fava bean.

The panzanella salad ($9) has mustard vinaigrette impressively dressing and warming the seared focaccia buried under kalamata olives, heirloom tomatoes, fennel, radish and mixed greens.

Feast your eyes on the mushroom arancini ($8)—fried risotto-filled balls of mushrooms and roasted red pepper, swimming in marinara and basil goodness. Desserts are rich and on-brand—housemade coconut ice cream is $3 a scoop and comes in flavors like lavender and mocha.

Pro tip: The server will ask if you mind your meal being served "fire at will," with everything brought out as it is ready. Tell them to fire away.

GO: 1125 SE Division St., 754-5993, portobellopdx.com. 5:30-10 pm Tuesday-Saturday, 9:30 am-2 pm and 5:30-9 pm Sunday. $$$.