Trent Pierce keeps his flagship seafood hall hidden behind a closed door at the back of B&T Oyster Bar, like an austere Blackbeard maintaining the secrecy of the captain's larder.

Seventy-five dollars and a reservation made at least a week in advance gets you a ticket to the gold-dappled hall and a four-course cruise—sushi, shellfish, fillet and dessert—with two options at each stop.

Among the highlights of a recent visit: a tropical ceviche made with blue marlin and a chili-powered nuoc cham dipping sauce; poached diver scallops forming a wall between sweet plum tapenade and savory Parmesan kombu broth; and an olive oil-poached Antarctic sea bass doused at the table in a matsutake-onion bath. The presentation on each dish is delicate and gorgeous, yet not so showy that it distracts from the New Zealand fatty salmon.

The resulting experience feels like a snorkeling trip guided by Kinfolk magazine; it is to fish houses what The Life Aquatic With Steve Zissou was to pirate movies. But you know what? The Life Aquatic was a really good movie.

Pro tip: Champagne and caviar can turn an expensive restaurant unaffordable, so split a bottle from the deep wine list—Roe's staff is expert at timing the pours.

GO: 3113 SE Division St., 232-1566, roepdx.rest. 5:15-9:30 pm Wednesday-Saturday. $$$$.