TarBoush Lebanese Bistro

Part of the charm of TarBoush—arguably the best Lebanese restaurant in Portland—is how personal it feels. That explains why the short-lived North Tabor spin-off is now Big Ass Sandwiches: Half the joy of TarBoush is walking into the Victorian house-cum-restaurant and being blasted with a whoosh of Lebanese spices. Among the traditional fare, the usual suspects are all represented and wonderful, from the city's best lamb shawarma ($19) to grilled skewers of beef or chicken that can be ordered alone ($14-$15.50), but should absolutely be upped to a mezza plate ($20.50) in order to get in on the tabouli, hummus and baba ghannoush. The lamb shank ($18.50) is kicked up with an array of citric and earthy flavors, but it's a safe bet. Instead, opt for something more adventurous like the moussaka batinjan ($14), an explosion of eggplant, garlic and chickpeas. Either way, resist the overpoweringly salty grape leaves ($8) and start with kibbeh ($10)—little beef-filled cones mating the best parts of croquettes and samosas.

Photo: Kayla Sprint Photo: Kayla Sprint

Pro tip: Don't be shy about pouring all the juices of your entree over leftover rice. It'll transform everything.

GO: 3257 SE Hawthorne Blvd., 235-3277, tarboushlebanesebistro.com. 11 am-9 pm daily. $$.

Willamette Week

AP Kryza

AP Kryza started writing for newspapers at age 15, studied journalism at Michigan State, and has been in publishing for more than half his life. Which is to say, he also knows how to make espresso drinks and wait tables. Follow him @apkryza.

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